As with any new creative product, it’s fun try new and different approaches to using a new medium. It can be helpful to know how to avoid some of the mistakes that can ruin supplies, time and result in money being wasted. I’ve learned a lot since working with these new inks when they were released this year from Ranger. I love the oxides almost as much as the distress inks now that I have had time to play with them. Hope the advice helps.
- Do not use on yupo paper. While yupo paper, a new synthetic polypropylene paper , works beautifully for watercolor and alcohol inks, it does not play nice with distress oxides. It could be thought of as a sort of chalkboard with the oxides. Just add water and watch your artwork disappear. Also, using a heat gun on it to speed up the drying will melt the paper, since it is essentially plastic.
- Distress oxides layer wonderfully on paper, but don’t mix them on a craft mat. Keep them separated and spritz lightly with water till they bead up. Drag the paper over the colors and wipe up residue, dry your paper and repeat if you want layers. Mixing colors while wet makes a nice mud color. So, if that is the look you are going for. mix away. I do highly recommend the new spray Distress bottle too. I was using whatever spray bottles I had and always had to take the top off in order to drip water on something , this bottle delivers as promised and doesn’t leak when the trigger lock is on. It is a perfect travel size companion.
- Putting regular distress ink over the oxides will not work to darken a color. It may tint a shade darker than the oxide that is coming through but the oxide fusion will keep rising to the top and overpower everything. Layer regular distress ink first, allow it to soak into the paper and then add drops of colors from the oxides on top as a highlight if you want a more intense color. I noted this when I first started using oxide inks in February Distress Oxide Ink-Part 2
- While regular distress ink can handle mixtures of colors okay and the ink pad can be wiped clean with a baby wipe, the oxides tend to merge and get muddied when other colors are mixed especially cool and warm colors. It will ruin the pad. Always use a separate foam applicator for each color, by putting two different colors onto the pad to conserve the number of pads you use it ruins your pad for the next inking. Buy a foam pad for each color, or use makeup sponges, it is worth the expense and they last a really long time. I highly recommend the foam pads though, because they take the scrubbing abuse longer than the sponges. It is a lot cheaper for the foam pads than a new ink pad.
- If you use photo paper or glossy cardstock the oxidized part will rub off if wiped or wet down. It will leave the die part of the ink behind when wet or wiped and the oxide look will disappear just not as obvious as the yupo disappearing act. Nice look, but the chalkiness of the oxides won’t be there, sort of defeats the purpose and you might as well have used standard distress ink.
- Stamping an image and then applying the oxide ink can make the image disappear. I had this happen numerous times, but re-stamping it over the drawing with stazon or archival ink brings it back. This is also where a stamp platform is priceless in getting the image lined back up before inking and missing it.
If these tips were helpful to you let me know and leave a comment or advice for others to learn from mistakes. As always, I have included some links to the products referred to in this post. Consider it a tip for me to keep this blog running and offers the latest best prices for Amazon to you and a small tip for me for listing the items and costs you nothing. Thanks for stopping by.